Rosa’s Clan

 

Rosa’s Clan

We drove out a long dirt road in Usulutan, El Salvador, for a day at la Playa de Barra Salada (Salty Bar Beach) and installed ourselves in a breezy rooftop pavilion overlooking El Templo Evangelico del Príncipe de Paz and the surf. Between tastes of fresh-caught boca colorada and watermelon and frosty beer I taught the Anaya family how to play Oh Shit! and then several of us quick-stepped across the scorchy sand for some body surfing. As we toweled off on the way back we passed a different kind of pavilion — a palm frond roof lashed atop a frame of bamboo poles, providing shade to hammocks and tables and chairs and a wood-fired grill where pots bubbled and things smelled good.

Neither Neto nor Chaka could identify what was in those pots but las cocineras ambled over to satisfy our curiosity and, next thing you knew, our appetites. When I protested that I didn’t have any money in my trunks, they waggled fingers, ushered us in, and sat us at a table in the middle of their ramshackle compound for servings of corn chowder and mangoes sautéed in syrup. Oboy! A handsome matriarch with white hair and a twinkly smile and smooth brown cheeks pulled up a chair to join us. Once Rosa had established herself, her daughters sons in-laws grandchildren and hangers-on gathered around to see if the old gringo liked the chow and to introduce themselves and to show us barefoot around the kitchen and the fishing boats canted over on the beach.

Rosa’s sons fish for two hours a day at sunfall and net enough boca colorada and shrimp to feed the family and cover the nut which apparently amounts to zilch. The rustling beach pavilion is theirs by right of possession. That their adjacent modest dwellings might be burdened by mortgages seems unlikely. So they hang out on the beach all day every day with the surf’s roar for a sound track and are happy to welcome a vagrant traveler as stimulating diversion.

If there was a cell phone among them they kept it hidden.

22 thoughts on “Rosa’s Clan”

  2. Good to know you’re OK.
    Katie & I celebrated Lori’s birthday together with Jack. Today, the church Bulletin in Santa Rosa said flowers on altar honor Lori for her birthday.

    Like

    Reply

  6. Oh Bill….. thanking you again for bringing the Anaya family into our lives… What a wonderful day that you described knowing that you were filled with love, and a time to just be…. We will put this on our bucket list. Time is precious, and with Bud’s recent heart surgery we know that it’s now or never…. Love to all of you as you enjoy this day. xxxx Marty

    Like

    Reply

  7. Love your reporting. Just before you saw Rosa, I was lucky to see her in Berkeley where Kate Bancroft who I hadn’t seen in years brought her to hear one of Israel’s great historians, Professor Ilan Pappe. Pappe is the author of the Ethnic Cleansing of Palestine. He had to leave Israel for England where he now teaches because of the many threats he and his family received from Israelis who did not want to hear the truth of the ethnic cleansing. It was good to see Rosa and Kate again. I am so glad that your trip to El Salvador, a country that I know is close to your heart, was a good one.
    Thinking of you and Lori.

    Like

    Reply

  8. Thank you Bill. So nice to hear from you – and to have the visual of your surroundings is wonderful as well. Sandy beach, blue sky, ocean waves….fresh fish & fruit and frosty beverage…and the company of beautiful, kind & generous friends…sounds lovely. Thank you for sharing with all of us.
    Soak it up along with the love & blessings coming your way.
    Safe travels to you,
    Love,
    Susan & Peter

    Like

    Reply

  9. So awesome! I guess I hike in Sonoma tomorrow is not in the cards! Much love to you an your angle, Lori!!!

    Ramona

    Like

    Reply

  10. Bill, You old Philly gringos just can’t stay away from that sweet tropical lifestyle, with plenty of Anaya fam and all the trimmings thrown in. Thanks for sharing.
    Fatty hugs and kisses to the the whole Rosalita fam, siblings and Mamacita.
    Al, Lynnie and fam

    Like

    Reply

  11. Glad you are in El Salvador with Rosa’s clan. Thanks for the report and photos. Will you have time to visit with Mirtala and her kids?

    Like

    Reply

  14. Hi Bill
    Through your writing we are also travelling !
    Warm weather will be nice, since one week we are in Torçay. it’s rainy and chilly.
    In Europe the weather was bad in May. Plus in France people are striking, no trains, no gazoline
    plane are also planning to strike the next days !!
    it s look that in El Salvador they are more happy with less.
    Enjoy these moments and thank you to share with us.
    Bises
    Colandi

    Like

    Reply

  16. Bill, great story telling. I was almost there with you. Of course, we know that you had a lot to do with the ambiance you describe.

    Like

    Reply

  21. HI There Bill,
    Sounds like you are having a great time – so glad for you. Think of you often — also the orchid that Lori sent to me is in bloom now – a great reminder of her love for us all. Is that beautiful mountain side in El Salvador? Less is more where you are. How delightful. I think Rosa’s clan have a great life.

    Like

    Reply

  22. So sorry to hear about your wife Lori. Will remember her, you, and your family in my next Eucharistic celebration. You really know how to take advantage of this e technology to share with your friends your many adventures. Many thanks for your reply to my email. All of these adventures of yours have to serve as a substitute for getting together for the meeting at Santa Clara. I hope spend some time with Arlene Schaupp, who I see is reading this same blog of yours.

    Like

    Reply

Leave a comment