The Aegean

The Aegean

Just try describing the Aegean Sea that embraces and chafes the islands of Greece. The shades of blue as the sun coasts across the sky and plays hide-and-seek with the clouds. The qualities of light at morning, midday, and evening. The views of the sea from the land. The views of the land from the sea. Your words falter and stumble. It can’t be done. If you want someone to get the beauty of The Aegean, you have to find a caique or a sailboat and cruise out upon it with them as we have done this past fortnight.

Captain Theo owns a forty-foot sloop which we chartered for a day sail to a beach over on the neighboring island of Skopelos. In his younger days before marriage and family Theo played soccer and boxed professionally. If I ever have to go down a dark alley in Athens, Theo is the guy I want with me. He prowls barefoot among his passengers from helm to cleat to anchor chain like a benevolent panther, all grace and balance. And . . . he is a sweetheart who whips up delicious luncheon chow down in his galley and greets you at dockside with hugs and kisses.

If central casting ever needs a classic young Greek man, square-jawed and sunny, Theo is their guy.

The caique is the traditional fishing boat of Greece. Its beamy curving lines mimic the swells and it dances and slices through them like a tubby porpoise, tapered at bow and stern. When we first came here a third of a century ago, two brothers ran a boatyard on the crescent of protected beach below the cemetery. They tipped limbs and trunks down the slope from the road above and with them fashioned keels and ribs and planking on the sand to the specifications of the fishermen who collaborated in their caiques’ construction with adzes and pegs and mallets.

Today the ferry pier separates the row of small colorful caiques still committed to fishing from their larger kin which haul tourists to sea. We rented one of these and chugged around Skiathos with beach stops at Castro for lunch and at Tsoungria for sundowners. In the sparkling channel between Cape Aghi Eleni and Pelion we gathered at the windswept lee rail and dedicated Lori’s ashes to The Aegean.

How apt that we committed the last of her mortal remains in this place where she and I and our family have made a second home, sun swept and replete with layers of memory to which each return adds another tier. Lori yet lives here, in memory and in the present, dancing to the sound track of Chorus Line as she did in 1981 and blessing us all as we introduce her grandson, Jack, to this island in the sea. Gratitude informs us all. Magic abides. Love endures all things.

 

 

 

15 thoughts on “The Aegean”

  1. Beautiful! Thanks for sharing!
    I visited Greece for the first time this year and loved every moment – Lori’s spirit will be very happy there
    Blessings to you and the family x

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  2. Thank you for your lovely description and lovely words. Lori will always be wth you and her blessing with all of us!! Xoxo, Steve and Julie

    Sent from my iPhone

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  7. Thank you Bill for sharing your dream Greek trip with all of us. Lori would love her last resting place. She will be with you always and forever.

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  8. You captured the essence of Skiathos with your beautiful words. So glad we visited there with your family, I can feel and see what drew you all back again. Lori is there in more ways than we can know. Much love.

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  13. Woops. The photo of me on the prow of the caique makes it look like I am relieving myself into our beautiful Aegean. I wasn’t. Honest. Still, at least you have caught me from my best side.

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  15. Dear Bill,
    Nice to read you, i appreciate your writing. Lori ashes in the Aegean sea is wonderful, you have been so many time there.
    Your Family and you are so nice on the photo, Jack is now a big boy.
    We are not going to USA in November but hope to see you soon
    Love
    Colette & Andi

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