Kauai
On September 11, 1992, Hurricane Iniki knocked on the door of the Sheraton Kauai Resort with her 145-mile-per-hour winds, blew out the windows, and sent the guests quivering into the central hallway where they huddled away from the shrapnel as Iniki shrieked and howled inland. She flattened telephone poles and palm trees, de-roofed houses, killed six people, and turned Kauai’s chicken coops into kindling. When Iniki’s winds and rains abated the humans set about cleaning up the mess and restoring electricity. The fowls discovered freedom and set about propagating in the undergrowth. A quarter century on, hens and chicks scratch and cluck and peep on the manicured lawns of every resort, along the verge of every roadside, and under our table at Bubba’s Burgers in Kapaa town. And the roosters . . . man, the roosters. Coop-free and randy, they have developed plumage to rival the birds of the wild, and swagger to match. Gorgeous. Cocksure. Fearless.
A century ago pigs attained feral status on Kauai, but not through the agency of a hurricane. Pigs grow big and are smart to start with. It only took a few of them to root under the fence, find forage in Kauai’s back country, and breed. Go wading through the island’s off-road understory today and you are likely to spook a family of pigs who will then spook you. The boars sport curly tusks with rapier points and attain the mass of rugby players. With attitude.
The locals like to eat them, so of a Saturday they load their jeeps with Remingtons and dogs to head off-road and hunt boar. In the morning the dogs lean out to catch the breeze with their pink tongues flapping. In the afternoon the jeep cruises home with a boar carcass strapped across the hood while the dogs whimper in the back with their pink entrails oozing. A cornered boar has the tools and the menace to eviscerate the attacking canines until Dad shows up to end the melee with his rifle. After the vet stitches up the hounds the guys dig a hole in the sand and roast up the very definition of succulent pork.
Hawaii’s sugar industry started on Kauai, at Koloa, in 1835, and flourished for fifteen decades. The island’s topography and weather made it the planet’s supreme venue for growing cane. The central massif of Kauai — 5,000-foot Mount Waialeale — intercepts the westward-moving trade winds and wrings every drop of water from them. 460 inches of rain a year. The wettest place on earth. Dig a few canals and you have an endless supply of irrigation for the cane fields on the island’s southwest apron. Also . . . endless sunshine. The clouds vanish altogether after pouring themselves dry over Waialeale.
Alas the mill at Kilauea closed in the 1970’s, driven under by the shipping costs to the mainland and, yes, by the cost of labor. In the ensuing decades the other mills shuttered one by one — Hanama’ulu, Lihue, Kealia, Koloa, Eleele, Kekaha. When the Gay and Robinson Mill at Kaumakakani closed in 2010 the last cane fields of Kauai went to weeds.
The grizzled sugar workers formed a cortège and snaked from mill to mill town, ending at Hanapepe when they stood in the street and wept. But by some happy employment juju, tourism has flourished here in perfect reciprocity to sugar’s demise. The locals who once covered the nut by chopping cane now wait tables or tend landscape or wash sheets. And on their days off they congregate with coolers and ice chests at the beach for volleyball and beers and bar-b-cue.
When you come here, hike the Na Pali coast and splurge on a helicopter tour. The images that this island etches into your grey cells will remain with you . . . forever.
hutch adventure 2 
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, Bill! Glad to see you are spending it with the family in paradise . I’m glad you were born so so long ago. With love on your special day, Renée and Ron
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Happy birthday, Bill! To add to your enjoyment of the day, please know that it’s snowing in Philadelphia.
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Yes, I remember it well. Ironwood trees snapped off like broccoli florets. Not sure if you’re still here, but give Mellie and I a shout if you need a bunk. on Oahu.
Putter
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Happy Birthday Dear Bill,
Your writing just keeps getting better. Perhaps being a travel magazine writer is in your future. Whatever it is, I hope it brings you joy.
Hugs,
Sharon
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Sounds like and looks like you are having a grand time! Enjoy every minute and we send best wishes for a very happy birthday!
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Your birthday in Kauai? How perfect! I love the chicken and rooster photos and the story behind it. Happy Birthday, my friend! 🎉🌈🏖
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happy birthday Bill uncle paul here many more to you have a primo for me
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Happy Birthday! One of the rooster shots is stunningly beautiful. I am sure you are having a wonderful day. Judith
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First of all Happy Birthday Bill.
So glad you sent this. My daughter and her husband and their two sons are off to Kauai in May to celebrate their 30th anniversary.
They have been to Kauai in the past and love the island but some of what you wrote might be new information for them. I will forward this to them and I am sure that they will enjoy reading this as much as I did.
I hope that all is well with you.
Love, Jan
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Bill, Thanks for your note and a good Happy Birthday!
Love, Betsy and Dan
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Happy Birthday dear Bill, we wish you all the best and enjoy this wondeful place.
Thank you for your reportage, a good way to learn.
Bises de laax, Colette & Andi
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Happy Birthday to you Bill!
Thank you for sharing your special moments and stunning photos.
And we always enjoy soaking up your wisdom.
How wonderful that you all could gather and celebrate in such a gorgeous place.
Sending hugs and lots of love,
Susan & Peter
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Happy Birthday Bill!
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Happy birthday and thanks for continuing this fine tradition.
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Thanks again for the great travelogue. They are always so well written and fun to read. Many more healthy and prosperous birthdays to come. Very best to you and family. Keep the messages coming.
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I liked the “Randy Rooster” part….reminded us of Sonoma Plaza!
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What a beautiful place to spend your birthday Bill. May you have many more.
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Thanks Bill. I recall the Na Pali Coast trail with fond emmories. Great place to celebrate your 70th.
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Happy Birthday, Bill!
We’ve haven’t made it to Hawaii yet but Kauai is now on our bucket list thanks to your beautiful writing! Have a picture of you and family on our refrig…think of you often!
Love to you…Jackie & Michael
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Ah yes-the Napali Trail. Brings back fond memories. I decided surfing was too dangerous, so left the class and low and behold, the trailhead. Late afternoon. I simply could not turn around and was watching the sunset outline the other islands offshore. Gorgeous! I also met a chatty hiker who was wearing shoes and a daypack. That’s it! Talk about keeping eye contact. Happy Birthday.
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